Citroën C5, 2.0 Hdi 2001Manual gearbox, LH Steering
Removing the drive-shaft sounds more complicated than it actually is.
The most demanding task can be to separate the splinted drive-shaft end from the hub and gaining access to the intermediate bearing retaining bolts if the vehicle isn't raised high enough. There are ( at least two ) different ways in which the bearing is secured.
One is with a retaining plate that is fixed with two Torx bolts. The bolts only need to be slackened and the retaining plate can be swung towards the rear.
The most demanding task can be to separate the splinted drive-shaft end from the hub and gaining access to the intermediate bearing retaining bolts if the vehicle isn't raised high enough. There are ( at least two ) different ways in which the bearing is secured.
One is with a retaining plate that is fixed with two Torx bolts. The bolts only need to be slackened and the retaining plate can be swung towards the rear.
The other version is ( as in this example ) with two offset-head ( L-shaped ) bolts. The nuts, located on the gearbox side, is slackened and the bolts are rotated 90° to allow the bearing to pass.As usual when performing work on parts involving seals and bushings, it's recommended to use NEW seals and bushings when the parts are refitted.
Common sense says that if it is a big job - use new sealings as a precaution..
- The hub carrier assembly is released from the control arm or the control arm from the frame.
- The drive-shaft is separated from the hub assembly.
- The intermediate bearing bolts are loosened and the offset-heads turned OR the retaining plate bolts are loosened to be able to swing the retaining plate towards the rear of the vehicle.
- The drive-shaft is withdrawn from the transmission.
The hub carrier assembly must be able to move outwards to free the drive-shaft from the hub. This first outward movement is prevented by the control arm so basically either release the hub assembly / control arm joint OR the release the control arm from the frame.
Releasing the control arm mounts affects the front wheel-alignment and a wheel-alignment must be carried out ASAP after the job is done. If the lower ball joint is separated from the control arm there should be no need for a wheel-alignment, but the lower ball joint rubber seal might be damaged.
If you haven't done a wheel alignment in a while go for the arm/frame mounts, on the other hand the ball joint haven't been changed in a while then renewing it IF it is damaged is the best choice.
A new ball joint nut is recommended to be used on refitting, but personally i have never renewed only the nut. Usually there is a need for either a wheel-alignment or the rubber on the joint is cracked and dry, meaning it will fail MOT soon anyway..
On this vehicle we chose to release the control arm from the frame, since the wheel-alignment was messed up anyway after changing a steering rod and the joint was rather new.
- Chock the rear wheels and apply the handbrake.
- Raise the vehicle to the HIGHEST position.
- Jack up the front of the car so that the appropriate road-wheel is free of the ground, and support the front on axle stands.
- Also place suitable support under the vehicle rear end.
- Lower the vehicle to the LOWEST position, onto the supports.
- Remove the road-wheel.
- On a manual transmission model, drain the gearbox or have a suitable container prepared for some amount of oil spillage when withdrawing the drive-shaft.
- Pull out the R-clip and remove the locking cap.
- On the C5, the handbrake affects the front wheels so the wheel hub shouldn't be able to turn. If it does, have an assistant firmly pressing the foot brake pedal as you turn the nut. A first little movement of the nut can also be done whilst the vehicle is still on the ground, before it is jacked up. Note that doing so the nut should NOT be turned, only released a notch from its seat. Turning the nut more puts the wheel bearing under unnecessary pressure. Unscrew the drive-shaft nut but only until the nut aligns up with the drive-shaft CV-joint end. This is to avoid the drive-shaft from falling down uncontrolled when the hub is moved and to protect the CV-joint threads if the joint needs to be tapped out of the hub.
- Separate the wheel-hub carrier assembly from the control arm OR the control arm from the frame. See text above how to choose which alternative is best suitable for your vehicle.
- Release wiring and brake hoses from retaining brackets and pull the wheel-hub assembly outward, to release the drive-shaft CV-joint from the hub assembly. The CV-joint is sometimes mounted using glue on the splines and might resist withdrawing. If necessary, keep and outward pressure on the hub and tap out the shaft from the hub, using a soft-faced mallet or a piece of wooden plank to protect the nut, CV-joint end and threads.
- Unscrew the drive-shaft nut and withdraw it completely from the hub, moving the hub outward and gently pushing the drive-shaft towards the gearbox as far as it goes. Secure the drive-shaft and move the hub-assembly towards the front of the vehicle as far as possible and secure it.
- Slacken the intermediate bearing retaining nuts according to retaining system ( see text above ). There is no need to remove them completely.
- Place a container under the vehicle to collect any oil spillage. Regardless of whether or not the gearbox have been drained.
- Support the drive-shaft and carefully withdraw the inner CV-joint from the transmission. Take care not to damage the drive-shaft oil seal.
- Remove the drive-shaft and use a temporary seal to cover the transmission if it is expected to take some time before refitting.
The vehicle should NEVER rest on a wheel without the CV-joint mounted.
If the vehicle needs to be moved, refitting the outer CV-joint is unavoidable.
The bearing can NOT carry the load of the vehicle without the CV-joint.
Find the type-tag on the drive-shaft and secure the data on it because the data will help you find the right replacement - if needed.The critical part of the drive-shaft is the inner- ( Triax ) Joint which should be inspected thoroughly. If this joint shows sign of excessive wear or free-play, the drive-shaft has to be replaced. Some vehicles have a inner joint to which parts is available, but these are very few.
There is no need to freak out and run for a new drive-shaft yet..
The inner-joint might have been running dry and the Tripod bearing rollers have got stuck or not moving smoothly, because the grease have been escaping during a period of time probably due to a deteriorated ( hard ) gaiter.
When a joint runs "dry" it starts to accumulate moisture and the dry surfaces starts to build up a cover of rust that slowly affecting rollers and bearings.
If the inner joint is in satisfactory condition, the drive-shaft can be overhauled.
The joint outer member is released at the same time with the gaiter.
In some cases there is a plastic bush that has to be removed.
Thoroughly clean the parts and inspect the tripod-joint ( spider ) bearings and joint outer member for wear, rust, pitting or scuffing on their surfaces.
For a moment i thought of running the Tripod in the dishwasher, but my wife calmly reminded me that i only have 1 reason to do so and 206 NOT to do it. She being a nurse.. i realized she was going to break every bone in my body if i did it.. so i used degreasers and rags..
Clean, oil and check that the tripod bearing rollers rotate easily and smoothly around the joint, and no traces of roughness is found. Also check that the roller sliding movement is without roughness.
If the joint is in satisfactory condition it is recommended to purchase a repair kit, containing the needed parts including a new gaiter, retaining clips and the right type and amount of grease needed.
Having come this far.. its almost a crime not to change the outer CV-joint gaiter before reinstalling the drive-shaft - unless you want to repeat this neat and clean experience..
If the drive-shaft have been removed from the vehicle, secure it firmly in a vice or similar.
Remove the gaiter retaining clips and slide the gaiter down the shaft to expose the joint.
Wipe off the grease and using a soft-metal drift and a hammer, firmly strike the inner member off the joint.
Even if the original plan is to only renew the gaiter its good to give the joint a thorough check-up.
Clean the joint and move the inner member to expose the balls and watch for cracks, wear and flat-spots. Also examine the ball tracks and the windows for cracks or ware.
If any of the parts in the joint show signs of ware or damage, its only a matter of time when the joint is going to fail. In this case it's highly recommended to purchase a new CV-joint.
If only the gaiter is being exchanged, purchase a kit containing the gaiter, clips and a package containing the right amount and type of grease needed.
The CV-joint kits differs a lot, and "you never know what you gonna get".. make sure you do..
The CV-joint should ALWAYS come with a new nut, but in most cases the gaiter kit is sold separately.
If the inner-joint have been found damaged or worn, the drive-shaft have to be replaced.
One alternative is to buy a used part and depending on the mileage on your vehicle, referred to the mileage of the "donator", it can be a reasonable choice. But bear in mind, a used part isn't the same thing as a new part.
That is especially true when it comes to the rubber gaiters. The deterioration is worse on a gaiter that stays static for longer times.
Having found a relatively low-mileage drive-shaft, check the condition of the gaiters before you install it to your vehicle. Surprisingly often, the outer CV-joint gaiter have deteriorated and starts pushing out grease after only a short while.
I strongly recommend changing the gaiters. At least the CV-joint gaiter.
It is an easy job and a small cost compared to what might lie ahead if the gaiter cracks open.
Installing of the drive-shaft is naturally the reverse of removal.
Before installing check the drive-shaft oil seal in the transmission, and renew it if needed.
A new seal isn't very expensive and is easy to renew at this stage, so it might be a good idea to do so regardless of condition.
Apply transmission oil on the drive-shaft end that is going into the transmission, and grease to the outer race of the intermediate bearing.
At all times during this next stage, care must be taken not to damage the transmission oil seal.
Carefully push the drive-shaft through the bearing mounting bracket, and the transmission oil seal.
Locate and align the drive-shaft splines with the gears in the transmission and gently push the drive-shaft further. Align the intermediate bearing with its mounting bracket and push the drive-shaft fully into position. If needed, use a soft-faced mallet to tap the outer race into position.
Lock the intermediate bearing retaining in place by turning the offset-head bolts or swing the retaining plate into place and tighten the bolts.
Apply a thin grease film on the CV-joint splines and shoulders, align the splines with those of the hub assembly. Move the hub assembly in place, pushing the drive-shaft into it at the same time.
Depending of what release point you chose ( see text above ) secure the hub assembly.
Lubricate the threads and the inner face of the CV-joint nut and tighten it.
Align the locking cap cutouts with the hole in the CV-joint threading and push the R-clip through.
Check / Refill the ( manual ) transmission with specified type of oil.
Drive-shaft retaining nut: 325Nm : 240lbf ft
Lower suspension arm balljoint nut: 45 Nm : 33lbf ft
RH intermediate bearing retaining bolts/nuts: 20Nm / : 15lbf ft
DISCLAIMER
If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working on these kind of projects (especially but not limited to electronics and mechanical),
please reconsider doing the job yourself. It is very possible on any work on your vehicle to damage it, void your vehicle insurance,
create a hazardous condition, harm or even kill yourself or others.
By using information given on this blog, you agree to do so on your own risk.
In no event shall the blog owner ( BO ) be responsible or liable for any injuries to persons or damage to property, related to or resulting from any information published on this blog. The information in this blog is published “As Is” and appear without expressed, implied or promised warranties of any kind. In particular the BO makes no warranties as to the accuracy, quality, completeness or applicability of the information provided.
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